Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Questions

Clutch, transmission, rear axle

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msmoffo
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Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Questions

Post by msmoffo »

I am a longtime visitor, first time poster to the site. I have researched my questions within the forum, but still have some unanswered ones. Any help would be appreciated.

I would like to swap my T18 for a remanufactured, real strong C6 automatic. I am doing a frame off restoration of a 1968 F100 LWB, and will be using it to cruise and show. Engine is being rebuilt from 360 to a 390, all the goodies to get to approx 325-350hp/400+ ft lbs. Stock 9" 3.25 rear end is staying put.

Here are my questions:

1. Explain what "pilot bushing" is on the crank (from earlier post), and how to remove or make sure the shop doing the rebuild removes?

2. Explain more about the flex plate, and whether I can keep the original flywheel (still in excellent shape)?

3. Can I use a slip yoke from the transmission to the short shaft, as that is how reman's usually are shipped?

4. Has anyone put on a Lokar floor shifter and Lokar kick down kit with an Edelbrock or other aftermarket carb? (I'm wondering how much, if any sheet metal work I should plan on in the cab before it is media blasted.)

FYI - This restoration is moving along well, and I've got a lot of aftermarket parts going in, and would love to share my experiences. Let me know...

Cool stuff going into the truck:
- 3 inch front 4 inch rear lowering with new i-beams and shackles
- front and rear disc brakes being added, with power
- power steering added
- Vintage Air
- March Pulley system with Billet going on the front of the engine with serpentine belts.
- Tailgate skin, latch reversal and roll pan with lights
- Ididit Steering Column added
- Lots of other stuff.

Thanks in advance for the help.
1968 Ford F100
fordman
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Post by fordman »

a pilot bearing is a bushing that is up inside of the crankshaft that the manual transmission rides on.

a flex plate i a auto matic flywheel. it is differnet than a manual flywheel in that it is thinner and more flexible than a manual flywheel. they will not interchange from manual to automatic.

truck automatics from the factory didn't use a slip yoke. only the cars did.
you will probaby have to get another driveshaft if you make the swap from manual to automatic i think but probably only the front half of the drive shaft.

number 4 i have no dealings with any of this.
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Dropped 68
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re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Quest

Post by Dropped 68 »

First off, welcome to the sight! Sounds like some cool stuff you have going on, can't wait to see it. Fordman makes some good points, just to add in my two cents. As far as the pilot bearing goes, it has to come out since the torque converter hub sits inside the hole where the pilot bushing would normally sit. There's several ways to get them out, but there's a special tool for this that you should be able to rent from most auto parts stores, that makes it easy.
In addition to what fordman said, the flexplate also has holes that the torque converter bolts up which the flywheel does not.

You can get a drive shaft from a 73-79 F series w/ a c-6 and It will be a one piece driveshaft, with a slip yoke, although you may have to have the length changed.
My buddy did it in his '68 and it was a bolt in deal, so who knows?


Good luck
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jor
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re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Quest

Post by jor »

bushing would normally sit. There's several ways to get them out, but there's a special tool for this that you should be able to rent from most auto parts stores
There's also a nifty shade tree solution to pilot bushing removal.
1. Find a long bolt that is the same or close to same diameter as the pilot bushing center;
2. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease on your fingers;
3. Reach in there and spread it on the pilot bushing so the
bushing center if filled;
4. Grab the bolt and stick it into the bushing;
5. Whack it with a hammer;
6. The hydraulic action will plop the bushing right out and onto the bolt.

Years ago I sent this trick into the Popular Science magazine Smokey Yunick column and they paid me $50. Thus, I am able to claim to be a published author. Good luck.
jor
msmoffo
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re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Quest

Post by msmoffo »

I really appreciate the suggestions and feedback. I have looked into the flex plate, and found a source. I'm glad I was told about this as the engine and flywheel were to be balanced. So, now we'll get the right stuff together and balanced. Thanks again.
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Re: re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Q

Post by Clarko »

msmoffo wrote:I'm glad I was told about this as the engine and flywheel were to be balanced. So, now we'll get the right stuff together and balanced.
A 390 is internally balanced from the factory.
The Lokar shifter is a great piece. My friend has one in his 56 F-100 with a 390/C6. Same truck has the Lokar kickdown on an edelbrock carb and it works GREAT!!! It is fully adjustable and I absolutely love it. It comes with clear and good instructions. One bolt on the transmission, two on the carb, and the connections at the carb and trans.
Good luck on your project!!
Brian
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Dropped 68
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re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Quest

Post by Dropped 68 »

jor, I've had somebody else tell me that you can get the pilot bushing (or bearing, in some cases) that way. Pretty intresting, I'll have to try that sometime, I almost didn't believe him at first, but now I believe I'll give it a whirl next time I have to take out a pilot bushing. (hopefully won't be for a while :lol: )
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spartman
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re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Quest

Post by spartman »

I have done that pilot bearing procedure quite a few times myself.

Works like a charm. Little messy afterward but oh well.
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Re: re: Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission Swap Q

Post by 67highboy »

jor wrote:
bushing would normally sit. There's several ways to get them out, but there's a special tool for this that you should be able to rent from most auto parts stores
There's also a nifty shade tree solution to pilot bushing removal.
1. Find a long bolt that is the same or close to same diameter as the pilot bushing center;
2. Put a glob of wheel bearing grease on your fingers;
3. Reach in there and spread it on the pilot bushing so the
bushing center if filled;
4. Grab the bolt and stick it into the bushing;
5. Whack it with a hammer;
6. The hydraulic action will plop the bushing right out and onto the bolt.

Years ago I sent this trick into the Popular Science magazine Smokey Yunick column and they paid me $50. Thus, I am able to claim to be a published author. Good luck.
jor

Thats the way my dad tought me to do it years ago..
Works like a champ.. :D
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