I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
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I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
My truck has cancer of the raingutters. It was "repaired" once prior to "painting" (at least, they applied paint- I don't think they prepped much) with some sort of plastic stuff.
Of course, the rust is appearing once again, and has rusted through is a few places.
Can this be repaired properly? Like welded and filled?
fn
Of course, the rust is appearing once again, and has rusted through is a few places.
Can this be repaired properly? Like welded and filled?
fn
- flyboy2610
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
It can be, but it's major surgery. You'd be better off finding a donor cab.
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- jzjames
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
I fear this is going to be the demise of all the old bumpside cabs eventually. It is the condensation from the inside, and miniscule leaks from the outside that allows the water to seep in and soak all that sandwiched sheetmetal on that body seam.
If the holes which have started are not too far advanced (like the roof is starting to separate already), you could try this repair:
I would set up to strip the outside of the raingutter completely down to bare sheetmetal. At the same time, de-flake all the rust from the inside of the roof and clean it as well as possible and apply some Por15 into that area with a paintbrush. Really slosh it in there to seal it from moisture. There is an aluminum based body filler (I think it is called 'Met-all') which is supposed to be moisture proof - as in wont absorb moisture - which you could apply to the perferations on the outside of the roof to fill them. Then smooth as in any body filler repair and coat well with a good spraypaint. I like the Duplicolor engine enamels for its durability. Finally reapply some gutter and flashing sealer into the raingutter after you tape it off to keep it in the area you want it.
This is one solution which might work to keep you sealed up for a while.![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
If the holes which have started are not too far advanced (like the roof is starting to separate already), you could try this repair:
I would set up to strip the outside of the raingutter completely down to bare sheetmetal. At the same time, de-flake all the rust from the inside of the roof and clean it as well as possible and apply some Por15 into that area with a paintbrush. Really slosh it in there to seal it from moisture. There is an aluminum based body filler (I think it is called 'Met-all') which is supposed to be moisture proof - as in wont absorb moisture - which you could apply to the perferations on the outside of the roof to fill them. Then smooth as in any body filler repair and coat well with a good spraypaint. I like the Duplicolor engine enamels for its durability. Finally reapply some gutter and flashing sealer into the raingutter after you tape it off to keep it in the area you want it.
This is one solution which might work to keep you sealed up for a while.
![Wink :wink:](./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)
- binder56jd
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
I have been seeing some things regarding "shaving" those gutters- seems they are a problem on a lot of vehicles- just an option ![Don't know :dk:](./images/smilies/icon_dontknow.gif)
![Don't know :dk:](./images/smilies/icon_dontknow.gif)
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- Galaxie64
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
Shaving is the first thing that came to my mind and I havem't seen it explained so of course I think I have figured it out and am probably totally wrong :lol
I assume you cut or grind them down flush then re-weld the area and grind it down flush again is this correct?
I assume you cut or grind them down flush then re-weld the area and grind it down flush again is this correct?
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'64 Galaxie 500 (3524bbl/57K miles)
'92 Grand Marquis (mostly stock 4.6L)
'97 F150 (heavily modded 5.4L)
'48 F1 (Flat 6)
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'56 F350 (engineless)
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
![Yeah that :yt:](./images/smilies/icon_yeahthat.gif)
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re: I'm afraid to ask- raingutter cancer
I believe thats the basic idea behind it, but its deffinately a job you dont want to mess up.
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- FoMoCo
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I have cut out rust rails and wanting to give my personal experiance/opinion. If your starting with a dry rust free cab this will be easy. Wether you start with rust or not, it's hard to get a decent gap around the door top edge to cab. The gutter hides the rough gap. Another miserable part is that you will always get wet getting in or out in the rain. The water will come in at you. Lastly, the rail offers some structure to the roof. I noticed my upper cab to roof seam is pulling apart as well as the side of the cab about where the iller neck is. It's ripping the metal. If I was to redo this I would use 3/8 or 1/2 rod and make a new "rail". This would function as a reinforcer but filled in, would be smooth. Kind of like a lip rather than a rail.
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- Galaxie64
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I like the rod idea, I was looking at mine the other night and it would take a ton of time and weld to do it right, with a rod you could cut down on a lot of the fill. I also think it might look good with a roll gutter.
'68 F150 2wd
'72 F250 2wd Camper Special (400/C6/4bbl)
'64 Galaxie 500 (3524bbl/57K miles)
'92 Grand Marquis (mostly stock 4.6L)
'97 F150 (heavily modded 5.4L)
'48 F1 (Flat 6)
'51 F3 (Flat V8 )
'56 F350 (engineless)
** Chuck Norris has counted to infinity -- twice. **
'72 F250 2wd Camper Special (400/C6/4bbl)
'64 Galaxie 500 (3524bbl/57K miles)
'92 Grand Marquis (mostly stock 4.6L)
'97 F150 (heavily modded 5.4L)
'48 F1 (Flat 6)
'51 F3 (Flat V8 )
'56 F350 (engineless)
** Chuck Norris has counted to infinity -- twice. **
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