shedding one layer of paint

cjs_72f250 · Post by **cjs_72f250** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 1:46 pm

hey guys, anyone have ideas for removing one layer of paint without damaging the original finish? previous owner hand brushed house primer over the beautiful "Grabber Blue" finish on the entire truck!

since i'm putting in a new engine and repainting the firewall while the engine is currently out, i figured why not try to get the rest of it looking pretty good too. i started to rattle can over the house primer with Rustoleum "Sail Blue" but it's not the same effect as Grabber Blue. you can see the blue wanting to come through the house primer...it wants to shine! any ideas? Thanks!

splavin90 · Post by **splavin90** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 2:17 pm

try steel wool and a little bit of water to get off that primer

69rangerman · Post by **69rangerman** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 3:11 pm

It'd take some time but a medium rubbing compound is good for removing dead layers of paint followed by a wax. Not sure how it'd work on primer though.

shanmeg1 · Post by **shanmeg1** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 3:21 pm

I've been using 800 grit wet/sand paper to remove some oversprayed paint all over my 89 with good results. I follow it up some polishing compound to bring back the shine. John

jzjames · Post by **jzjames** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 3:54 pm

Try the lacquer thinner on the housepaint and see what it does. It may start to wash off. Try it with some very fine steel wool or an old towel and be ready to flush it with water when you get down to a level where you can buff the rest of it off with some compound. Do one panel at a time, there should be a way to get it off if youre careful.

Oh and if the housepaint was latex you could try soaking it with ammonia.

cjs_72f250 · Post by **cjs_72f250** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 4:11 pm

thanks for the tips...this is going to take me a while, but hopefully it will be worth it.

The Good Humor Man · Post by **The Good Humor Man** » Wed Aug 23, 2006 9:46 pm

Try easy off oven cleaner, we used it to remove lettering off of doors, and it works great, and leaves the original paint intact.

shanmeg1 · Post by **shanmeg1** » Fri Aug 25, 2006 4:15 am

Good tips.

foghorn · Post by **foghorn** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 6:23 pm

IMO Using the thinner lacqure might just be to harsh. Try enamel first like dupont 3812. Also the 800 sandpaper IMO should be 1000 grit. Maybe after 30 years in the body shop i didnt ever learn anything but like i say IMO. You might even try 1000 on da paper and a da it just might kinda clog the paper and tend to roll it off in balls. I have had some paints do this in the past. If it was just a rattle can paint the 3812 would work wonders for you. Let me know what results you are having i might be able to help more dont know for sure.

shanmeg1 · Post by **shanmeg1** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 3:02 am

Foghorn
Will the 3812 work on old pinstriping and decals used to dress up the sides too. Is that a liquid or thinner or some type of compound? John

foghorn · Post by **foghorn** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 4:08 am

its a enamel thinner. but for what your talking about try a slow drying lacquer thinner. I don't remember the part numbers right off the top of my head. I do know that dupont 3696 is a fast thinner. The faster the thinner the faster it will cut also the faster it will probably take the factory finish. Take the thinner and get a single edge razor blade to back drag the glue after you soften it with the thinner for real stubborn glues. Other wise just keep scrubbing with the thinner alone. When you see it leaving small balls of glue turn the rag to a fresh side. Might take a few rags to do this also. Now 3m makes a product called woodgrain and stripe remover also but kinda pricey IMO. This kinda works like paint remover does but just on the stripe or woodgrain siding. After so many years i got to where i could take a razor blade scraper and run down the side of the car and remove them with very little scratching to compound off afterwards. That method i don't recommend for the beginner as you might end up gouging the paint. I almost forgot if you do use a blade to back drag with the blades will have a rough lip of metal from the factory. This is easy to tell usually if made in the usa the side that has the usa on it should go up. But if you feel you can tell also it will grab a little. I hope i have been helpful to you

steve

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