Parking Lot Clutch Replacement ???

[Shockway]

Bought a 67, F100, 240/manual column, from Colorodo. DAS shipped to Florida. Clutch failed enroute. Must fix undefined clutch problem in parking lot so I can drive truck home.

Any cautions, precautions, or special pulling tools needed?

Clutch failure describe as: "It just spins."

Sounds like a worn plate to me. ? I replaced a worn clutch in a 1970 toyota about 15 years ago. I figure... unbolt drive shaft from tran, floor-jack tran, losten mounts and bell housing, slide tran back, replace all clutch parts. Am I close?

[Big D's 69]

SOunds like a plan to me. Dont' know of any special tools. I would replace flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, adn throwout bearing while I was there.

[Shockway]

Thanks, Big D. Appreciate the go-ahead. Say, what about those light weight flywheels. Would that help out fuel efficiency or is that just a V8 performance, fast off-the-line, thing?

[fuzzier1]

Shockway
Not trying to hijack your post but where in NM are you from? I live in the Four Corners area (Farmington).
Fuzzier

[Big D's 69]

Thanks, Big D. Appreciate the go-ahead. Say, what about those light weight flywheels. Would that help out fuel efficiency or is that just a V8 performance, fast off-the-line, thing?

Me personally I would stay away from the lightweight ones. They are good for road racing where you need to get the rpm's back up but not much good for day to day driving.IMO

[Shockway]

Fuzzier1,

I'm from all over, actually. I plan to eventually relocate to NM, so it's about being forward looking. I'm not a New Mexico kinsman, yet, but I've learned to appreciate high dry climates and areas with some degree of aerospace opportunities. I'm in Florida, these days, with the exact opposite climate... low and humid. I don't want my truck to rust.

[roachrider]

A lightweight flywheel will reduce the inertia of your rotating assembly, allowing it to change RPM faster by retaining less energy. That would be advantageous in a race vehicle where you want the engine to be more responsive to throttle to allow faster shifts with less energy needing to be absorbed by the clutch, etc.

A heavier flywheel will retain more energy. The engine will be less responsive to throttle changes. However, that added inertia will make it easier to pull the truck into each gear by helping the engine to retain it's rotational speed despite the clutch trying to drag it down into the next gear.

Hope that was worded in a somewhat clear fashion. Things always make more sense in my mind before they come out on paper(or computer).

[foghorn]

The flywheel may only need surfaced. If it looks like a dried up river bed replace it but if not have it surfaced and save some money


steve

[mrsnicks]

Only special tool I can think of is the clutch alignment tool...

They usually come in a pack, and you have to find the right one that has the correct splines for your vehicle... aligns the clutch to the splines as you slip it in.

Oh yeah... DON'T OVERTORQUE THE PRESSURE PLATE BOLTS!! They break off very easily and are a pain to get out.

Don't ask me how I know this.. 0:)

Patrick

[flyboy2610]

Where exactly is the truck NOW? Maybe someone is close and can come give you a hand.

[Shockway]

Thanks guys, for the good info.

roachrider, foghorn, mrsnicks, & flyboy2610.


The truck will arrive 60 miles from me... not too far to go and fix. Bought a 67 shop manual. While fixing in the parking lot, I'll hope it's just linkage, but will replace clutch assembly if needed and flywheel too, if it's not to impractical to do there on the pavement. The DAS guys might give me a bad time over it and say I've got to tow it out of there. Hope not.

Thanks again for all the ideas.

[NM5K]

Usually you will get an alignment tool if you
buy the whole clutch package. Or at least I did..
To me, the most important thing would be having
the best floor jack, tranny jack, etc I could find.
That takes a lot of the work out of it, if you can
safely support the tranny while manuevering.
But... I remember one guy that did the clutch
in one of my old chevy trucks just by lifting it out
with no jack at all.. I don't think I'd like that much..
The better the support, the easier it will be to line
up and restab it when you are done. As far as
the flywheel, myself, if it's pretty good, but just
some glaze, etc, I use emory cloth to sand it
up real good, and add a slight "surface" to it.
Then I clean with brake cleaner real good , and
slap it back on. Only a real bad disk would I
get a new one, or resurface. Just depends...
The one on my 68, I just sanded with emery
cloth, and so far the clutch has been fine.
The only bummer about that deal was my
throwout bearing started to slightly squeal
not too long after I put that stuff in.. It's gotta
a lifetime warranty, but I've been too lazy to
yank the 4 speed, and I just live with it for now.
MK

[mk]

I've been there
Had to change a throw-out bearing in a '69 with a 302/3 spd one time. Just drove the RH wheels up on the edge of the curb in front of my place for a little extra height and fixed it. I found the three speed is light enough to pull by hand, maybe have support under the bell housing when you remove the trans crossmember. After the trans is out, take the jack out from under the bell housing and pull it off. No special tools needed, very straightforward for the rest. If you make sure the clutch plate is centered under the pressure plate you shouldn't have to worry about a pilot shaft. When I did the clutch in my 89 4x4 last fall, I found out, like MK, some kits are coming with plastic pilot shafts now.

mike

[72hiboy4x4]

I used to use a 9"x 1/2" ratchet extension to line mine up. but that was hit-n-miss mostly.
the spline alignment tools really is nice.