Why weld up seams?

[71Ford100]

Why weld up the body seams on the bed (like Keith is). The only thing I could think of was tho help keep it from rusting out. Seems like a lot of time for a rather small result. Can you convince me otherwise . Also how hard is it to get the beads ground down to look like a natural contour of the bed

[FORDification]

As you mentioned, it's a lot of work for little benefit. Most folks who do it are after the smoother-looking bedsides (simply a vanity issue), but then of course you get the added benefit of not having to worry about it rusting out. But welding them up is a LOT of work, and if not done right you run the risk of warping the panels.....kinda like I did on my first try, even though I thought I was being careful. Mine's not really bad, but it's definitely going to take some additional work to straighten back out.

Right after I posted that last update page I got an e-mail from a '67 bumpside owner named Dan who also is bodyman who offered the following suggestions:

I just read some of your update on welding the seam on the box of your 67 SWB (I have a 67 SWB Ranger myself) and here's a tip:

As a professional bodyman and also a professional welder, my advice would be to weld in 1" or less segments, and quench with a wet cool rag immediately after welding, then move as far away as possible from that weld to begin the next one.

If you can get a buddy to do the quenching for you, this process can actually go pretty fast. Make sure area is dry when you come back to begin welding again.

A REALLY important tip, is to do the same when grinding......use fresh grinding discs (not used ones) so you remove material fast with minimal heat/time and then quench that area right away as you did in the welding.

Don't be afraid to put new fresh discs on as you go, you can always use the used ones later on less critical jobs.

Remember to move around when grinding also like in the welding, and to make sure any area you return to for grinding is dry AND cool, or it will shorten the life of your disc. Never grind an area you just welded, hot/warm welds dramatically shorten grinding disc life.

"Heat" is your enemy in both operations, taking the time to cool now is much easier than having to correct it in bodywork later----something most people CANNOT do very well.

When I get around to getting started on the other side's seams I'll most definitely be doing these steps, to avoid repeating the same mistakes.

[lazyj70]

Dan knows his stuff. I have a trailer mfg. co. and thats pretty much how we weld our 16 ga. sheets. Of course being in production we don't have a guy standing there and cooling it, but if you have a bunch of dead beat buddies like me you can always find the extra hands.

[Big D's 69]

I will keep that in mind when I weld my seams up.

[alvinator]

okay, any of you guys that can weld, close by in Texas that can come over and weld mine for me I will be happy to do the cooling part

[layedout72]

that really sums everything up.

[marz68]

It dose take longer to cool as you go but at least you don't have to use tons of bondo to cover up all that warping that you get for not cooling as you go. How do I know?

[FORDification]

It dose take longer to cool as you go but at least you don't have to use tons of bondo to cover up all that warping that you get for not cooling as you go. How do I know?

Well, add me to that club too ....there's going to have to be a bit more filler along that right side than I really wanted, just 'cause I gotta cover up the warpage on mine. Oh well....live and learn, right? I'll get the left side done right....I hope!

[marz68]

My mistake was done on a customer car, but I did have my buddies bail me out of this one.

[layedout72]

It dose take longer to cool as you go but at least you don't have to use tons of bondo to cover up all that warping that you get for not cooling as you go. How do I know?

Well, add me to that club too ....there's going to have to be a bit more filler along that right side than I really wanted, just 'cause I gotta cover up the warpage on mine. Oh well....live and learn, right? I'll get the left side done right....I hope!

keith could u not shrink the metal enough? atleast to cut down on the bondo a little more...

[rjewkes]

When i finally get my next truck and i get to the point of seams i will go with the filler stuff the factory used. This did seem to last 20-30+ years on most of our trucks.

[Tim P.]

Im having my truck box done actually my 72 box rotted behind the seam sealer the body guy stated that the last body man hid alot of sin that i wasn't aware of so my newer box is a 67 donor he cut the camper door storage off my old one and welded it in place and put the side marker lites in the right place now it,s a 72 box and we deciced to use a seam sealer from the building trades called Quad it comes in many colors its made of synthic rubber and I use this stuff for yrs on siding products and after many yrs the stuff stays in place still plyable no shrinking no rot or cracks so we will see how it does on my body seams oh bty its paintable after cure time and it lays nicely if you know what your doing on caulking skills.

[FORDification]

keith could u not shrink the metal enough? atleast to cut down on the bondo a little more...

Yeah, I'll be able to get most of it out....well, maybe 75%-80%. Unfortunately the warpage occured below the seam, nothing above. It'll a major PIA to get to the backside of the bump to try to shrink the metal, but I guess ya gotta do what ya gotta do.

[FoMoCo]

I know this sounds silly but there's a sprayable gel out there that acts as a heat barrier for welding in things like a new roof or qaurter panel. I'll try to get the name this week.

Nick

[rjewkes]

Hey how badly warped is it? could it be covered by ading XLT chrome?