Wheel Cylinders

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Nickabocker
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Wheel Cylinders

Post by Nickabocker »

Hi i was wondering how hard and complex it is to replace the wheel cylinders on a 1967 fordd f100 (drum brakes) my old ones are completely bad.....please help i have purchsed new ones ut have no idea where to start..

Nick
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re: Wheel Cylinders

Post by FORDification »

Replacing the cylinders themselves is a snap.

1) Remove the wheel and drum
2) Disconnect the line going to the cylinder at the rear of the backing plate
3) Remove the two bolts holding the cylinder to the backing plate
4) Remove cylinder

Just be sure not to get any brake fluid on the brake shoes. You might consider covering the shoes with some wide masking tape for protection.

Installation is in reverse of above. You'll have to bleed the brakes afterwards obviously, which will probably take you longer than replacing the cylinders. But that's it. :D
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
ImageImageImage
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
Nickabocker
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Post by Nickabocker »

ok thanks for the help.......i just ordered them earlier today and they will be there tomarrow so hopefully i can get the brakes up and running...... One more question......the rear axle........ how do i drain the gear oil and put new in???......i just replaced the tranny which was low so i figuared the rear is too....
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re: Wheel Cylinders

Post by FORDification »

There isn't a drain plug on a 9" Ford rearend, so you have to remove the third member. Follow these steps and you shouldn't have any trouble:

1) Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels.
2) Raise and support both sides of the rear end.
3) Remove the rear wheels.
4) Remove the rear drums.
5) Partially remove the rear axle shafts. There is a hole on the axle shaft flange that provides access to the nuts that hold the axle shaft in place, rotate the axle shaft to find and remove each of the four nuts. Pull the axle shaft out of the axle tube about 12 inches (sometimes this takes a little force)
6) Mark the driveshaft and rear yoke for proper alignment during installation.
7) Remove the two u-bolts that go around the u-joint into the rear yoke.
8 ) The driveshaft should now be free from the rear end. Wrap the u-joint with some tape to keep the caps from falling off.
9) Place a pan to catch the used gear lube under the diff.
10) Remove the nuts holding the 3rd member in the housing. Note: loosen, but don't yet remove the top 3 nuts.
11) Pry the bottom of the 3rd member away from the housing (sometimes the takes some extra force).
12) Allow the oil to drain.
13) Remove the remaining top 3 nuts.
14) Remove the 3rd member from the housing.
15) Thoroughly clean the old gasket materials from the mating surfaces, while avoiding getting dirt or other foreign materials into the gears or housing.
16) Remove the rest of the used oil from the housing.
17) Inspect all parts for unusual wear.
18 ) Using RTV silicone (I use the orange stuff) place a continuous 1/8" bead on both mating surfaces. Make sure you go completely around all bolts and bolt holes.
19) Allow the RTV to cure for 15 to 20 minutes.
20) Replace the 3rd member. Do NOT overtighten the nuts - if you do, you will squeeze out the RTV and the seal will leak.
21) Install the driveshaft in the proper alignment.
22) Slide the axle shafts back into the diff (sometime this takes a little wiggling and manuevering).
23) Replace the axle shaft nuts.
24) Replace the rear drums.
25) Replace the rear wheels.
26) By now the RTV should be dry enough to fill the rear end with new fluid.

DONE!

I hope my directions don't look intimidating. It really is a straight-forward job.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
ImageImageImage
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
Nickabocker
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Post by Nickabocker »

Ok how much gear oil do i need? my cheltin book don't tell me that
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re: Wheel Cylinders

Post by FORDification »

I can't find my manual here. Just get two quarts, that'll be more than enough, and then just fill it via the fill plug until it just starts to leak out.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
ImageImageImage
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
Nickabocker
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Post by Nickabocker »

Hi, i've an into some trobles....how do i remove the cylinder? i've fallowed all instructions but i have things in my way....AXLE,springs......do i need to remove that too?

Nick
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re: Wheel Cylinders

Post by FORDification »

Yes, you're have to remove those return springs to allow you to spread the shoes apart enough to remove the cylinder. And since the axle is only held in by four nuts, it's an easy enough job to pull the axle to give you room to work, if that would make it easier for you.
____| \__
-O-----O- Keith
'67 F-100 2WD SWB ~ '69 F-100 4WD SWB w/7" chop ~ 1975 F-250 Ranger XLT Supercab Camper Special
ImageImageImage
My '67 restoration video
-> Posting and you! <-a MUST watch for all!!
Nickabocker
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Post by Nickabocker »

i got it figuared out about 4 hours ago......then i found out i haave to replace a brake line too :(
but thanks for the help :D

nick
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